Lube the 3 pivot points in the pump mechanism well! That's where the gun needs the greatest attention and old oil gets gummy. While it should be re-sealed (with the correct intake valve that Tim recommends!) it should be in top mechanical condition with that little prior use. If you lubed it before trying it the fresh oil may have loosened the trash, blew it out and allowed it to seal. Original problem could have been a bit of trash on the valve seat. Hopefully I can get into it pretty soon and I'll share what I find. 20 cal pellets through it, so at maybe 1500 shots the ol gun should be far from worn out. I got it new and it seems like I only remember shooting 3 of the old yellow plastic boxes of. What caused this great gun to stop working for so many years as a kid IS what I want to fiqure out. Fastest shot was a 623fps and oddly enough that was the first shot at only 8 pumps. I assume 10 pumps is the most you'd want to pump these is that correct? Thats just what I remember my father telling me as a kid. pumps to have a baseline after I finish my overhaul to see if thiers an improvment. I fired some rounds over the cronograph at diff. I ordered this kit and the sheridan tool from Associates wierd thing is when I got ready to work on it I stepped out and tried it again this time it started pumping up pressure and sounds normal when fired. Funny thing is the gun quit shooting many years ago and I put it up I got it out here a month or so ago and the same thing it just wouldnt pump up. I will now pay close attention to this while in the gun, work has been so busy that Ive yet to get in her. Otherwise you're just exercising your wallet. If your buying a kit make sure it is one with a fixed(fully crimped) Intake. You can spend anywhere from $42 to $142 and believe me you get what you pay for. When you use the single tool you are lucky to get things in there and are even luckier if there isn't lead in the threads keeping the nut from tightening.
The design concept forces lead into the threads to hold the valve in so you can put the nut on. The threads should be cleaned out every time or you risk damaging a classic. According to my Grandfather if you don't have that tool you got no business inside of a Dan or Benjy. One in particular makes the set which is the Tap to clean the lead out of the valve nut threads. I think I have around 11 tools dedicated to the Dan/Benj Rebuild process. When these guns come in is is obvious the user did the work himself and someone made money selling valve tools and parts that won't last. JG sends me his Check valves and I reform them for him and everyone elses kits I've seen come without the Intake valve being finished. Without the final crimp process the seal has no chance of keeping the high pressure from getting behind the seal and pushing it out of the brass cup. This means unless your check valve or kit came from Mac1 or JG Airguns the Intake valve Crosman supplies will fail in a very routine fashion as soon as you push it. The forming of the Intake (check valve) brass cup that holds the seal has had the final crimping process eliminated. The biggest problem you will have with currently available spares is the Intake valve will normally be inadequately crimped.
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